Karnaval Parade Explained. (Well, at least some of it.) Episode 1
This is a post for blan. (Foreigners.)
Karnaval season is upon us here in Jacmel and, quite frankly, it's a time of year I love. It's a time where Haiti is on colorful display for a grand celebration. (Not unlike Karnaval in many other countries.) But Jacmel's Karnaval is EXCEPTIONAL! Being a city with such an artistic flair, this is the time when Jacmel's talents are on display like no other.
I love reading and learning new things about Haiti. And when I first moved here, I was told that Karnaval was something that Christians should never participate in. I was told that it was 100% voudou and that it was a reckless time of debauchery that God hates. So I didn't participate for the first two years here. Now, I don't believe what I was told is true. And, quite honestly, I have seen the people who have told me this whooping it up at Karnaval with my own eyes. So, yeah. This made me dig deeper into these claims. Here's how I understand it. (And I reserve the right to edit this if I find out something different.)
Rara season (which occurs after Karnavl during lent) is a series of voudou celebrations but Karnaval is not a voudou affair. While there are some voudou components of the Karnaval parade (as it is the national religion here-- so, culturally, it's no different than a church group in the States having a parade float in a 4th of July parade), the great majority of it is a big display of the Haitian story. There are groups that represent major milestones in Haitian history. There are groups that broadcast social messages. There are groups that aim at protecting the health of Haitians. There are local dance groups. There is a karate group. There is a cosmetology group that marches and displays crazy cool hairstyles they've created. There are children marching with social services for children's rights. It's just like any other parade, except way cooler.
Karnaval is much bigger than just the national parade on one Sunday afternoon. It's an entire season here, starting in January and building each week until the day before lent begins. In this series, I am not going to be diving into the whole season. I am not going to be diving into the nighttime festivities (which, in all honesty, are far more debaucherous.) No, this series is about the daytime national Karnaval parade that will be taking place this year on Sunday, February 23. I want to show some pictures from Karnavals past and share some of the stories behind the masks. So let's get started!
Today I want to talk about Lanset Kòd. (Rope Throwers)
Big groups of guys covered in black run around the streets in the time leading up to Karnaval, and during the actual Sunday parade as well. Their bodies are painted with a mixture of cane syrup, charcoal, and klerin (moonshine). The result is a super-black, super-sticky mixture that looks oily, but is not. It's more gritty, but will easily wash off with water.
So. Lots of people are scared of these groups. In the Sundays leading up to National Karnaval, they will often times set up mock police checkpoints. They will have a rope across the road and will try to stop you and ask for a donation to pass clean. If you refuse to give a donation, they may (not always) try to make you or your car dirty with their black mixture. I've been told that the money collected at these faux checkpoints is to buy the things they need to make their body paint for Karnaval.
But what's the point?
The point of the lanset kòd is a visual reminder of the fight against slavery. Usually in these groups, someone will have a rope around another member, symbolizing the bondage of slavery that Haitians were in before the revolt that lead to independence. This uprising is sometimes represented by people wearing horns on their head. Remember, Haiti was the first and only slave revolt in history that lead to a free nation. That is something to remember and celebrate.
Here's a video of a group of lanset kòd in the main street last weekend.
If you get too close to these groups while they are in the streets, they will try to get their paint on you, but it is all in good fun. (And if you really don't want to get dirty, they will usually respect that and just touch one finger to yours. :)
When Nick and I went down to watch Karnaval festivities this past Sunday, we had a friend of ours who was participating and got us good...
Rara season (which occurs after Karnavl during lent) is a series of voudou celebrations but Karnaval is not a voudou affair. While there are some voudou components of the Karnaval parade (as it is the national religion here-- so, culturally, it's no different than a church group in the States having a parade float in a 4th of July parade), the great majority of it is a big display of the Haitian story. There are groups that represent major milestones in Haitian history. There are groups that broadcast social messages. There are groups that aim at protecting the health of Haitians. There are local dance groups. There is a karate group. There is a cosmetology group that marches and displays crazy cool hairstyles they've created. There are children marching with social services for children's rights. It's just like any other parade, except way cooler.
Karnaval is much bigger than just the national parade on one Sunday afternoon. It's an entire season here, starting in January and building each week until the day before lent begins. In this series, I am not going to be diving into the whole season. I am not going to be diving into the nighttime festivities (which, in all honesty, are far more debaucherous.) No, this series is about the daytime national Karnaval parade that will be taking place this year on Sunday, February 23. I want to show some pictures from Karnavals past and share some of the stories behind the masks. So let's get started!
Today I want to talk about Lanset Kòd. (Rope Throwers)
Big groups of guys covered in black run around the streets in the time leading up to Karnaval, and during the actual Sunday parade as well. Their bodies are painted with a mixture of cane syrup, charcoal, and klerin (moonshine). The result is a super-black, super-sticky mixture that looks oily, but is not. It's more gritty, but will easily wash off with water.
So. Lots of people are scared of these groups. In the Sundays leading up to National Karnaval, they will often times set up mock police checkpoints. They will have a rope across the road and will try to stop you and ask for a donation to pass clean. If you refuse to give a donation, they may (not always) try to make you or your car dirty with their black mixture. I've been told that the money collected at these faux checkpoints is to buy the things they need to make their body paint for Karnaval.
But what's the point?
The point of the lanset kòd is a visual reminder of the fight against slavery. Usually in these groups, someone will have a rope around another member, symbolizing the bondage of slavery that Haitians were in before the revolt that lead to independence. This uprising is sometimes represented by people wearing horns on their head. Remember, Haiti was the first and only slave revolt in history that lead to a free nation. That is something to remember and celebrate.
Here's a video of a group of lanset kòd in the main street last weekend.
If you get too close to these groups while they are in the streets, they will try to get their paint on you, but it is all in good fun. (And if you really don't want to get dirty, they will usually respect that and just touch one finger to yours. :)
When Nick and I went down to watch Karnaval festivities this past Sunday, we had a friend of ours who was participating and got us good...
Stay tuned for the next episode on the Chaloskas!
Thanks for this little "series." I am ALWAYS interested in learning Hatitan History, and personally, it seems very spiritual to me to remember one's past and how far God may have brought one. We should never forget our stories. In Scripture, the stories of God during Moses' time we meant to be handed down and recounted. Now, mind you, the voudou component isn't necessarily "spiritual" but the rest of it certainly can be. Looking forward to your next installment. And, by the way, what books can you recommend on the spiritual history of Haiti? I need to read some.....
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